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Dogs love to run and play during a photoshoot, but capturing this sharply and with quality in your photos can be quite a challenge! In this article, I’d like to share 10 tips for anyone who wants to learn how to photograph dogs in action.

1. Spontaneous yet controlled

An action shot should look spontaneous, but it’s not a good idea to let the dog run wildly and then snap away “on a wing and a prayer.”

Observe the dog carefully during your shoot and try to figure out what action it will enjoy the most. Is the dog a bit older? Then a simple sprint towards the photographer might be quite a challenge! Do you have a real agility champion in front of your lens? Then you can raise the bar a bit higher! Is there a real playful pup in front of your lens? Then go for an action shot including its favorite toy!

If the dog can sit and stay well, you’re lucky; the owner can stand over you and call the dog. However, if the dog is not one to sit still, you’ll need to get a bit more creative. If you don’t have much experience with action photography, it’s helpful to lay a stick on your path for the dog to jump over. This way, you’ll know exactly where the “action” will take place, and with luck, you’ll capture a beautiful flying dog in action right away.

2. Camera settings and lenses

To capture a sharp action shot, you need a fast shutter speed. Typically, 1/1000 sec is sufficient to freeze the action.

I prefer a blurred background in my photos to make the dog stand out. To achieve this, use the widest aperture available to you. For example, if you’re shooting with a 70-200mm lens – a popular choice for action photography – zoom in to 200mm and use an aperture of f/2.8.

The ISO value determines the amount of noise in your photo, and with a high shutter speed, your ISO value can quickly escalate. Therefore, it’s crucial to carefully choose your location when shooting action scenes (see point 7). Ideally, an ISO of 100 is perfect, but you’ll need to adjust according to the lighting conditions.

I shoot with a mirrorless camera (Canon R6 and Canon R5) and use the automatic animal eye autofocus for all my shoots to achieve sharp focus. If you’re using a DSLR or don’t have this function, use a single focus point and focus on the nearest eye.

Switch to continuous autofocus mode to keep the moving dog in focus. This allows the camera to continuously adjust focus as the subject moves.

Finally, utilize burst mode to capture multiple photos rapidly. The number of shots you can take in burst mode depends on your camera. Ensure you have a fast memory card to store all this data without your camera starting to lag; more on this in the point below!

3. Check your memory card!

For photographing dogs in action, it’s important to use a fast memory card. This is often overlooked. You can have a camera that can capture a perfect number of images per second, but if you insert a slow memory card, your camera will quickly lock up because it can’t write the data fast enough.

On a camera’s memory card, you’ll find various symbols and numbers that indicate the card’s specifications and performance. Buy a memory card with sufficient capacity (I personally use a 128GB card) and a high write speed. These are the actual read and write speeds of the card, expressed in megabytes per second (MB/s). I prefer a card with a write speed of 300 megabytes per second.

4. Use a toy!

Some dogs go absolutely wild when you bring out their favorite toy, so it’s extra fun to include it in the photos too!

5. Multiple dogs in action

When owners come with multiple dogs, it’s always fun to capture an action shot of them together. However, it’s quite a challenge to get both dogs sharply in focus because they rarely walk in a straight line together.

Opt for a location with a lot of depth, blur your background as much as possible (read in this article how to achieve this), and keep in mind that Photoshop can come to the rescue if they don’t walk neatly side by side!

A stick or another toy can be very helpful in keeping your models more or less in the same position while they are still in full action!

6. Run together!

If you encounter a sporty owner or an enthusiastic child who wants to join in the photo, I always love capturing them running together. With children, this results in delightful spontaneous photos; they stay warm and didn’t expect the photoshoot to be so fun and active!

7. Location choice

Since you use a high shutter speed for action photography, the choice of your location is extra important if you want to capture action shots. With a high shutter speed, your ISO can quickly escalate in a dark environment, resulting in low-quality photos with a lot of noise.

An open field is therefore my preference for capturing action shots. Below, the cocker spaniel is running in a potato field. The direction of movement is “under control,” there is enough light to keep your ISO low, and you immediately have an original environment with “flowers” in your photo! An orchard or the winter forest when the trees are bare also lend themselves excellently to action shots.

8. Back button focus

You love it or you hate it, but I am already a fan!

Back button focus is an advanced technique in photography where the autofocus function of a camera is decoupled from the shutter button and assigned to a separate button on the back of the camera, often referred to as the AF-ON button.

Normally, the autofocus of a camera is activated when you half-press the shutter button. This means the camera activates both focusing and capturing the image when you press the shutter button. With back button focus, however, autofocus is activated by pressing the AF-ON button on the back of the camera, while the shutter button is only used to actually take the photo.

This has various benefits for photographing dogs in action! By separating autofocus from the shutter button, you have more control over the focusing point. For example, you can focus on a subject and lock the focus by holding down the AF-ON button, allowing you to adjust the composition without changing the focus.

Since autofocus is set before pressing the shutter button, the camera can react faster to changing scenes or moving subjects. This is especially useful for our fast-moving dogs!

Furthermore, you reduce the chance of blurry photos because autofocus isn’t reactivated every time you press the shutter button!

Refer to your camera’s manual for the best setup and give it a try to see if you like it!

9. Low perspective

Lie down on the ground when taking action photos; this makes the dog really pop in your photo and gives it an imposing presence. Also, try experimenting with a wide-angle lens like in the photo below (taken with the RF 16-35mm) if you want to capture more of the surroundings in your shot.

10. Additional tips

• If you also want to take portrait photos during the shoot, start with those first before switching to action shots; otherwise, you might end up with portrait photos with reaaaaaally long tongues and tired looks!
• Always bring enough water for the dog and avoid action shots when temperatures are too high. Winter is the most ideal season for action!
• Ensure a safe environment with minimal distractions and respect the dog’s boundaries if you notice it starting to get tired.
• Try it with a cat too if you want to challenge yourself; they also enjoy a sprint now and then 🙂

Are you looking to further specialize in dog photography and learn how to capture dogs in an artistic way? Consider attending a workshop on artistic dog photography to boost your skills and take your photography to a new level!

In the TV program “The Perfect Picture” 8 well-known Flemish personalities, under the direction of presenter Manu Van Acker, compete against each other to take the perfect photo!

Each episode features two specializations in photography, and of course, dog photography couldn’t be left out!

So one day, I was contacted by the production company asking if I wanted to participate in this episode. Of course, I immediately agreed and off we went!

A quick touch of makeup before meeting the contestants and explaining the task to them!

Theme

The theme was “dogs catching treats” and the celebrities descended to Pellenberg where they were each assigned a wonderful model to work with in my studio.

Ingeborg Sergeant was assigned Niké the border collie as a model. Bie Baert got to work with the super cute Cas the bichon frisé. Filip Peeters had Aslan the standard poodle in front of his lens, Joffrey Anane had Bean the beautiful wolfhound, and Julius Persoone got to throw treats for Nysha the toller.

They were given a time limit of 30 minutes to complete the task, and there had to be a clear “action” in the photo.

Especially for those who had no experience with dogs, it became quite a challenge to complete the task successfully, but all’s well that ends well! After 30 minutes, they had all managed to deliver at least 1 “Perfect Picture”!

Next, the photos were printed, and as a jury member, I got to give points alongside the regular judges Sofie Van De Velde and Zeger Garré, and assess who had executed the task the best.

Julius immediately succeeded in gaining the trust of Nysha with his calm approach and even added an original extra touch by combining a trick with the catching action.

A big congratulations to Julius on your well-deserved victory!

Would you like to try this yourself with your dog? Below, I’ll gladly give you some tips to help you succeed!

1. Use a wide-angle lens

With a wide-angle lens, you can get close to your dog and throw the treat at the right moment. Your eye-hand coordination will be put to the test, but by throwing it yourself, you can easily capture the right “action moment.” If you have trouble holding your camera steady, use a camera hand strap; it will also support your wrist more.

2. The right flash equipment

When working with flash lighting, you need a flash with a short flash duration and a fast recycle time. Personally, I use broncolor siros flashes for this purpose. Each flash has a different flash duration, and at full power, the flash has a slower speed than at half power.

Now, getting a bit technical… You need to look for the T1 value of your flash. This indicates the time needed for 90% of the total flash to be discharged.

Many photographers in Belgium use Godox, so let’s take a look at the T1 values of the Godox AD600 Pro:

• 1/1 1/220
• 1/2 1/740
• 1/4 1/1470
• 1/8 1/2352
• 1/16 1/3448
• 1/32 1/4651
• 1/64 1/5780
• 1/128 1/8130
• 1/256 1/10000

To photograph dogs in action outdoors, a shutter speed of 1/1000 is sufficient, but in the studio, it’s a bit different. You can expect that from a shutter speed of 1/2000 or more, you have a good chance of completely freezing your motion and keeping it sharp.

3. Camera settings

Each camera brand and model has its own sync speed. This is the maximum shutter speed at which the camera can work with the flash. If you’re unsure of yours, check the manual or use 1/160 to avoid black bars in your image.

Once you’ve set the shutter speed, adjust your ISO. This is the sensitivity of the sensor. I prefer to shoot in the studio at ISO 100 for optimal quality!

Finally, choose your aperture; I typically use around f/8 in the studio.

I set the white balance to flash and for focusing, I use automatic eye autofocus for animals on my mirrorless camera (Canon R6 and Canon R5). If you’re using a DSLR, use a single focus point and focus on the nearest eye.

4. Extra tips

• If you want a real “catch” photo, it’s important that the dog knows how to do this. Most dogs won’t catch at a treat if they haven’t been taught to do so. Of course, this can also result in hilarious photos!
• Use a toy as an alternative if the dog doesn’t want to catch the treat.
• Create a collage in Photoshop instead of a single catching photo if you can’t decide which photo you like the most!
• Always check with the owner first if the dog has any food allergies before using your own treats.
• Practice! Practice! Practice! Your dog certainly won’t get tired of those treats quickly!
• Once you’ve mastered it, experiment with what you throw. Maybe shaping a letter of the dog’s name with a letter-shaped treat is just that bit more original than a regular treat. Ultimately, we aim for nothing less than “The Perfect Picture” 🙂 !

G O O D L U C K !

In this article, I’d like to share 10 dog photography tips for beginners who are embarking on their journey as a dog photographer!

1. Work with natural light

If you want to create a beautiful atmosphere in your photos, it’s important to work with the right light.

The most beautiful light is usually found during the blue hour, an hour after sunrise, or during the golden hour, an hour before sunset. During these times, the light is less harsh, resulting in softer shadows and a more gentle atmosphere in your images.

Even a cloudy day is fine for photos. The cloud cover provides a beautiful even distribution of light with a soft effect on your subject!

2. Pay attention to the background

Choose your location carefully, paying special attention to the background. Avoid placing the dog directly in front of a tree, as it may appear as if the tree is growing out of its head! Look for a location with ample depth, such as an alleyway or a long forest path. This way, you can keep the background nicely blurred, directing all the attention to your subject!

Read more here about how to create a soft background in your photos!

3. Work at the dog’s eye level

During an outdoor photoshoot, I typically lie flat on the ground! This creates the impression that the dog is stepping directly into your camera, resulting in a more engaging image compared to shooting the dog from above.

Of course, rules are also meant to be broken, and occasionally, you can choose a different perspective to add some variety to your shoot.

4. Focus on the closest eye

Use a single focus point in your camera or utilize the animal eye autofocus if available. Always focus on the closest eye.

If you’re working with multiple dogs, try to align them on the same plane so that they are all in focus.

5. Use a high shutter speed

Dogs love to run and be active. Even during a portrait session, the dog may not always remain completely still. Anticipate this by setting your shutter speed high enough.

A shutter speed of 1/1000 is a good starting point to freeze the motion of a dog in action.

6. Reward!

The most crucial aspect during a photoshoot with dogs is that the dog enjoys it! Of course, the dog won’t care much about the owner wanting a beautiful photo on the wall, but the more fun the dog has during the shoot, the more it will reflect in the photos!

Reward the dog generously with treats, its favorite toy, or a big cuddle during the session!

7. Capture attention with your voice

Of course, the dog doesn’t need to look directly into the camera for every photo, but for creating a compelling portrait, it’s helpful if you can quickly grab their attention. Personally, I prefer using my voice. It’s always with you, and you don’t need to hold a squeaker or anything else in your hand.

Make high-pitched squeaking noises or an unexpected sound to grab attention. Also, words like “treat?” can have a good effect! This results in an expressive gaze with beautifully perked-up ears! However, avoid calling the dog’s name; many dogs will come to you then!

8. Introduce variation into your shoot

Once you’ve immortalized the “classic” poses like “sit” and “down,” it’s fun to bring some more diversity into your shoot. Ask the owner if the dog knows any other commands, switch lenses, try a different perspective, or bring a prop like a bag, scarf, lantern, blanket, or cart for some variety!

Who knows, the dog might also know some fun tricks that you can integrate into your shoot? Read this article if you want more inspiration for fun dog tricks!

9. Save your action shots for last!

Action shots are always fun but also tiring for the dog. If you start with them and let the dog run around several times, its tongue will soon be hanging out, especially in the summer! It then becomes much harder to take beautiful portraits afterward. That’s why I always save the action shots for last, and it’s also a positive way to end the shoot!

10. Don’t forget the owners…

Many owners take endless photos of their beloved four-legged friends but have hardly any photos with themselves in them. So, it’s nice to give them a moment during the shoot to be in the spotlight together with their dog!

Are you looking to further specialize in dog photography and learn how to capture dogs in an artistic manner? Consider taking a workshop on artistic dog photography to boost your skills and elevate your photography to a new level!

A frequently asked question during studio photography workshops is which studio flash is best to purchase when working with dogs. It’s difficult to give a straightforward answer because it depends on your budget, the space you have available, whether you also want to capture action, and so on…

In the article below, I’d like to provide some guidelines to consider when purchasing a flash.

1. Flash power

The power of a studio flash is expressed in Watts and determines how much light the flash emits. The smaller your space, the quicker you’ll get by with less power; the larger your space, the more you’ll benefit from a flash with higher power. Also, if you plan to photograph multiple dogs simultaneously, higher power can be advantageous.

Specifically for dogs, it’s important to consider that the higher you set the flash output, the more “noise” the flash will make, which could be disturbing for some breeds sensitive to noise. From that perspective, it’s interesting to invest in a flash with higher power so that you don’t have to set it at full power, making it less threatening for the dog.

Personally, I have a large space available and work with flashes at 400 and 800 Watts. Also, keep in mind that the more power you bring in, the more expensive your purchase will be.

2. Flash speed

When purchasing your studio flash, it’s important to determine what you want to capture in your studio. Are you primarily planning to take portraits, or do you also enjoy capturing movement, such as dogs catching treats?

In the latter case, it’s important to buy a flash with a sufficiently short flash duration. This way, you can freeze the movement perfectly!

3. Flash recycle time

In addition to speed, it’s also important that your flash has a sufficiently fast recycle time.

The recycle time of a studio flash refers to the time it takes for the flash to recharge after firing a flash.

Generally, studio flashes have recycle times that vary from a fraction of a second to several seconds, depending on their power and design. Some professional studio flashes can have a very short recycle time, allowing them to flash rapidly in succession. Other models may require more time to recharge between flashes.

If you’re working with dogs and you want to capture the puppy like in the photo below, you can imagine that you need to quickly take multiple photos in succession to capture this moment at the right time.

4. Flash sound

You might be considered crazy if you ask about the sound a flash makes in the store, but for dogs, this is indeed important. The quieter the flash, the less some sensitive dogs will have problems with it; the louder the flash, the more sensitive the reaction might be.

Most flashes also have built-in ventilation, which can sometimes be very distracting for a dog when it suddenly starts to “cool down.” So, the quieter the flash, the better! As you could already read in point 1, you can also purchase a flash with higher power with the intention of not using it at maximum power to make less noise.

5. Compatibility with light modifiers

In addition to purchasing a studio flash, you will also need a light modifier to mount on your flash.

Light modifiers, such as softboxes, umbrellas, grids, and beauty dishes, are designed with a specific mounting system that depends on the brand. There are Bowens mounts, Elinchrom mounts, Profoto mounts, Broncolor mounts, and so on…

Therefore, it’s important to check whether the light modifier is compatible with the specific mounting system of your studio flash. Some brands may have their own unique mounting systems that may not be compatible with light modifiers from other brands without the use of adapters or specific accessories.

6. Flash with batteries or not?

There are both flash units that operate with batteries and those that operate on mains power.

If you don’t plan to start a mobile studio, then mains-powered flashes are ideal for studio photography if you have a location where you can permanently supply power to the flash. These flashes are often more powerful than battery-powered flashes because of the power they can draw from the outlet.

A disadvantage is that they are less portable and rely on the availability of electricity, which can sometimes be a challenge on location.

If you plan to start a mobile studio, it’s definitely worth looking into the range of battery-powered flashes so that you can capture the best shots even in situations where mains power isn’t available.

Are you looking to start with studio photography but not sure where to begin? Consider a private studio photography workshop. Tell me more about the space you have available and the goals you’d like to achieve, and I’ll be happy to show you all the possibilities for starting your own studio at home!